How to Build Board and Batten Shutters

Last Updated:  July 1, 2021

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Special materials used in this video:

Hinges and Pintles: https://amzn.to/3lcef3o

General Finishes Outdoor Oil: https://amzn.to/3hmpl3M


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Some of my favorite projects are those that have such an impact that they instantly transform the space they’re in. These board and batten shutters are one of those projects.

If you get the color right, these shutters will instantly transform the curb appeal of your home. And, they’re ridiculously easy to build. Make them as simple or intricate as you like.

Milling the Parts

I bought walnut from the lumber yard and ripped it down to 5 1/4” wide. You don’t have to go that route – you could buy dimensional lumber from the home center. A 1×6 is 5 1/2” wide, so you’ll be very close to my measurements here.

Once the boards were ripped down I lined them up flush and clamped them in place. Then, I took them to the miter saw and cut them all to length at the same time. Cutting them one at a time will work, but I like to get them all as close to the exact same length as I can.

I routed each edge to give them a slight chamfer and then used 1/8” spacers to set the boards in what would be their final position. Adding a chamfer brings the edges in, so you don’t want to measure for the batten until after you’ve made that cut.

Assembly

After cutting the batten to length and chamfering its edges, I measured 6” from the end of the shutter, added glue to the back of the batten where it comes in contact with the boards, and set the bottom of the batten on the 6” mark. I clamped it in place while driving 2 1/2” wood screws from the back of the board into the batten (FIG 6).

Adding Stain and Finish

After cleaning up the glue squeeze-out and then letting it dry for about an hour, I applied dark walnut wood stain to make the walnut a bit richer and darker. There were a few glue spots I missed and stain won’t work on these spots causing them to stand out. I sanded them down and applied stain.

If you paint your shutters, use a thick, exterior paint.

The final finishing step was to add a heavy coat of General Finishes Outdoor Oil, wait 15 minutes, and then wipe off the excess. I let the finish cure for 24 hours and then loaded them up to deliver and install.

Installation

I attached the hinges to the back of the boards underneath the batten with the included screws (FIG 10). Make sure to drill pilot holes if you’re using hardwood.

With the help of a friend, we taped the pintle to the hinge and held the shutter in place while we marked the holes for the pintle bases. I did it this way since these shutters are a hybrid of decorative and functional. They swing open, but they aren’t meant to be functional shutters that cover the window. Full sized shutters looked bulky and awkward.

If you build fully functional shutters meant to close and cover your windows, set the shutter in front of the window and place a spacer underneath it. Allowing for about an 1/8” gap between the shutter and edge of the window opening swing the pintles around until they sit flat on the brick or window casing and mark the holes. It’s a much easier process.

I drilled the holes with a hammer drill and masonry bit and then drove masonry anchor screws to secure the pintle bases.

The shutter slides easily onto the pintles. The result is a beautifully substantial look that, in my opinion, looks better than surface mounted shutters.


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